Which is the optimal exposure compensation for Nikon D90 ?
Many users said: -0.7 in all lightning conditions, to preserve highlights, for jpeg
For NEF, optimal exposure to -1/6 or -2/6 (1/3) to guard against blowing out highlights
this is true ?
Look at the histogram and compensate according to the situation...
[quote name='bandika2000' timestamp='1300186553' post='6797']
Which is the optimal exposure compensation for Nikon D90 ?
Many users said: -0.7 in all lightning conditions, to preserve highlights, for jpeg
For NEF, optimal exposure to -1/6 or -2/6 (1/3) to guard against blowing out highlights
this is true ?
[/quote]
I believe that it matters a lot which exposure method you use with the D90. The matrix metering tends to over expose with certain scenes, I have forgotten the specifics.
Blowing white surfaces is something I try to avoid, but highlights, in my opinion, are fine to blow... as long as the scene is exposed correctly.
[quote name='bandika2000' timestamp='1300186553' post='6797']
Which is the optimal exposure compensation for Nikon D90 ?
Many users said: -0.7 in all lightning conditions, to preserve highlights, for jpeg
For NEF, optimal exposure to -1/6 or -2/6 (1/3) to guard against blowing out highlights
this is true ?
[/quote]
For NEF, you should be able to recover a stop of highlight range anyway, so I wouldn't be too worried... other than that, I don't thin there's such a thing as "optimum exposure compensation" for all scenes. Each scene is different. Compensate accordingly.
[quote name='bandika2000' timestamp='1300199293' post='6813']
I'm thinking specially to avoid blowing out skin tones outdoor at bright sunny day
and
avoid blowing out skin tones indoor with flash bouncing like this image:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bandika2000/5518846255/
[/quote]
You are not "blowing out" any skin tones in your example. At least not in the traditional sense of highlight clipping on a histogram.
If you don't want the flash/ sun glare on the skin, use a softbox or a good quality diffuser.
The D90, like some other Nikons, tends to overexpose a bit in certain situations.
So it might often be good to use -0.3 or -0.7.
But there is no general rule or "standard" setting.
If you shoot RAW, you can recover 1 stop of higlights.
If you are not too concerned about noise, you can use always -0.7 and recover the lows later.
thanks for all of you <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='
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Use the bracketing function of the D90 if you shoot in JPEG and just recover with View NX2 if you shoot RAW. Your example just needs half a stop more and you would be fine.
[quote name='Vieux loup' timestamp='1300728655' post='6996']
Use the bracketing function of the D90 if you shoot in JPEG and just recover with View NX2 if you shoot RAW. Your example just needs half a stop more and you would be fine.
[/quote]
In his example, he used a flash.
Flash TTL has independant exposure calculations separate from the normal camera exposure.
He'll have to turn down the Flash's exposure to -0.3 to -0.7, not the camera's exposure compensation.
If he only turned down the camera'as exposure compensation and left the Flash at 0 conpensation, the background will only get darker and the subject will remain the same.