[miro]

It is not clear do you want to achieve Toni.
hxbb12 already made clear statements at previous thread.
1. More DR is beter
2. Much cheaper and lighter APS-C systems have belter DR than EOS RP.

Here is my personal opinion.
- Photography is an art and camera is an tool – I would like not to be limited by the tool.
- Imagine you start building an system from the scratch. You need camera, bunch of lenses, ,llighting, microphones etc. – Camera A system cost X $ and wight Y kg. Camera system B has the same parameter but is 3 times cheaper and weight 50% less.
- My case & many other users shares the same – I already have bunch of good EF lenses and will go with Canon. I know that Canon does not offer me what I want but switching the system cost even more. I have no illusion that I’ve made the best choice, I don’t want to convince my wife, kids and on-line community that I’ve made
- One advice – I think that you can self-answer to your question – Look at your pictures. What brig you upgrade from 300d to 30D and so on? Does it worth the upgrade? You can make chart like this Grat images vs camera ?

PS: I have one question. I still remember one image from almost 20 years ago. “Abandoned village – night shot”. Was it taken with film or was with 300d?

Best regards,
Miro

[toni-a]

It is not clear do you want to achieve Toni.
hxbb12 already made clear statements at previous thread.
1. More DR is beter
2. Much cheaper and lighter APS-C systems have belter DR than EOS RP.

Here is my personal opinion.
- Photography is an art and camera is an tool – I would like not to be limited by the tool.
- Imagine you start building an system from the scratch. You need camera, bunch of lenses, ,llighting, microphones etc. – Camera A system cost X $ and wight Y kg. Camera system B has the same parameter but is 3 times cheaper and weight 50% less.
- My case & many other users shares the same – I already have bunch of good EF lenses and will go with Canon. I know that Canon does not offer me what I want but switching the system cost even more. I have no illusion that I’ve made the best choice, I don’t want to convince my wife, kids and on-line community that I’ve made
- One advice – I think that you can self-answer to your question – Look at your pictures. What brig you upgrade from 300d to 30D and so on? Does it worth the upgrade? You can make chart like this Grat images vs camera ?

PS: I have one question. I still remember one image from almost 20 years ago. “Abandoned village – night shot”. Was it taken with film or was with 300d?

Best regards,
Miro

Agree all you said, I just wanted to show things in real life how important they are that's all, how do they look in pictures.

BTW did you know that printers and printing papers also have their own dynamic range that is just around 7-8 f stops for the best of them ?? but of course this is not an excuse to say cameras with less dynamic range are better, we all agree the more the better since it will allow more ease and room for post processing

and you have a fantastic memory !!!!
was it this shot in the video ??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hE6FC_ZXtdw
if that's it, yes, it was taken with 300D

[obican]

You might as well get underexposed shadows when exposing to the right. I use a Fujifilm X-T10 to photograph interiors. I've never measured the dynamic range myself but according to imaging-resource, it's around 12.9 f-stops. The company I work for demands that the windows and the view outside should be overexposed but not blown out in all interior shots. With the 5 year old X-T10 (the sensor itself is probably even older, X-T1 had the same sensor 6 years ago), I can't keep those highlights where I want while having clean shadow detail. For that, I have to merge two images together for the illusion of a higher dynamic range. Since the X-T10 has absolutely horrible metering, that means I have to bracket both shots and select two images from 6 bracketed candidates, just to be sure. In the most extreme cases, I've had to merge three images together.

With a modern camera, like the X-Pro3 I used on one assignment, I don't have to go for merged images as often. Most of the time (but not always) I can just recover both highlights and shadows from a single image. Again, I haven't measured the dynamic range but it seems like it's almost a whole stop better than the X-T10, somewhere between 13.5-14 stops. That one stop of difference minimizes my editing workload significantly because for every property I photograph, I end up doing 3 or 4 photomerged images instead of 15-20. Since my workflow is merging those images manually from layers in Photoshop, this is a huge time saver since I can just use the dynamic range recovery sliders in Capture One and be done with the whole thing.

If your full frame RP has one stop worse dynamic range than my 5 year old Fuji with its 6 year old APS-C sensor, there's no way I'd use such a limiting camera in a professional setup such as architectural and interior photography.