Some of you may have followed my soul searching deciding what new equipment to get to replace my 20 year old film SLR and lenses with up to date gear. Many of you gave me valuable advice and I finally got all my new toys last week. Without any doubt great equipment.
Now I have to learn how to take good pictures with it. So far, I am about one third through the manual for a Nikon D300S; I cannot loose any more hair  but my head is full of scratch marks. <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='  ' /> I love the way my camera feels, but nobody told me that Nikon has 50 different guys writing software for the cameras and nobody to coordinate it at the end. Maybe it's me, but I have not found the thread <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='  ' />
It was so simple before. You selected a film, decided on your exposure mode and off you went!
I can do that now as well I think, but there are a thousand different ways of doing almost the same thing and so many adjustment that can be made, that you never seem to know when to stop.
I am sure I am not the only person feeling this way, so I have decided to open a topic for the process of how to get accustomed to the new systems. With your permission, I will ask for advice as I go along. Maybe the first one is; What are those things that you do every day when you pick up your camera and go out to shoot. Not the extraspecial adjustments that you may or may not do, but those things that you do every day, come hell or high water, before you are ready to push the shutter button. There may be 5 things that you always do. What are they? I am going out to buy some band aids and look forward to your good thoughts! <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' />
I'sd suggest you first check out that which you used most in the past with your film slr, with regard to settings and mode of working, and continue slowly from there on.
IOW, if you used Av a lot, switch to that mode, and start using it. However, do yourself a favour and set the camera to store both raw and jpeg for now, after you have determined what jpeg settings you like contrast, sharpness, saturation and colour wise (just do some test shots). Leave WB on AWB for now; you can always correct from RAW if you need to.
Since you can always change settings after the fact when you shoot raw, I wouldn't worry too much about settings like B&W, landscape, protrait mode, whatever, until you get aroound to properly playing with these settings if you really need that. What you can remember, however, is that it is very easy to change iso for any shot, unlike with film, plus iso 1600 looks better than anything you could ever produce at that iso on film. So, use it if you need it, it isn't a problem, just use it and be amazed <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' />.
As to standard setings on the camera, you need to define your own standard settings first. For me, as indicated I guess, it is Av, because in 99 % of the cases I want to be in control of the aperture. Furthermore, my standard iso is 400. It was that in the film age with colour, and it works well enough for me now. I'll change down and up if needed, no problem, but always revert to 400 iso after the shoot. The same with any other settings: I just make sure all is set back to my standard settings before I switch off the camera, and I make sure I mount my standard lens too, ready for use as it were for most circumstances.
AF I set to the central AF point, single shot mode, and for any specific adjustments I generally use MF for override, or AF on a spot with good contrast that is the same distance away from the camera as the actual subject.
Metering I set normally to evaluative, but I don't know what that is on a Nikon. If needed, I will use other metering modes, but again always switch back to evaluative afterwards.
I also switch focusing to one of the other buttons, IOW, not directly linked to the shutter button, because every time I press it it will then refocus, which is in most cases not what I want.
Metering overrides, or exposure compensation I dial in as required, and again switch back after the shoot.
Flash sync I set to maximum standard sync speed, and at the second curtain, just in case I shoot something moving with flash, as that will allow for the stopping action of flash to occur at the end of the movement in the picture.
I hope this is enough for a start. I'll think a little longer to see if I can come up with anything else. Roughly, these are my standard settings, which I essentially revert to after every shoot, if I have switched on or off other modes or values etc.
Kind regards, Wim
Gear: Canon EOS R with 3 primes and 2 zooms, 4 EF-R adapters, Canon EOS 5 (analog), 9 Canon EF primes, a lone Canon EF zoom, 2 extenders, 2 converters, tubes; Olympus OM-D 1 Mk II & Pen F with 12 primes, 6 zooms, and 3 Metabones EF-MFT adapters ....
Well here are my suggestions based on my experience on the D90. Ok D300s is something else, but I believe these can help you also:
- set the mode to "A", it gives you more control than other modes (except for specific types of shots)
- check the highest ISO number you can get without noise by trying test shots. Know your limits concerning the basics of exposure.
- assign a function to AE/AF Lock button (enabling focus & reframe)
- set the file type to "NEF"
- matrix metering works well with support of the active D-Lighting option. I use it mostly for landscape shots. For short ranges with less dynamic range I prefer the center weighted metering.
- use spot focus if you want to controll what you want to focus on. Among other fancy options, the 3D tracking mode can be used for moving objects (with AF-C mode for example).
- AF mode is also important. I'm not sure if it exist as in D90 but I'd suggest to set it initially to AF-A. AF-C is for moving subjects and AF-S has focus priority (you cannot shoot unless the subject is in focus). And AF-A is the auto version. After you get used to the body you can choose your own option.
- I don't know about the auto WB quality of D300s, but D90's is less than average. So use a white/gray card to set the WB optimally (especially if you prefer to shoot JPEG instead of NEF).
- Againg, a suggestion based on a D90 experience: I usually set the EV to -0,3 depending on the daylight and it works well. I believe the D90's sensor tends to overexpose. You might want to check this also in your D300s.
- last but not least, shoot as many pictures as you can in your warm-up phase. Getting used to the metering, focusing behaviour of the body and the customized combination of those becomes a real joy.
Kind regards,
Serkan
Thanks a lot Serkan. Good advice. I think most of the points for a D90 apply to the §D300s as well. Since you have one, can you please tell me how to attach the neck strap in the safest way, IOW so that it does not slide off the eyelet? I don't really feel like walking around as a live Nikon commercial and also attract unwanted attention to a fortune around my neck, but until I can get a neutral, good one I have no choice. If you have a little picture showing how to, I'd appreciate it. Kind regards, Wolf
I actually found a good diagram in the manual for the D300. They have left it out in my manual. Don't know why!!! Maybe they had many complaints about the camera falling off <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' />
Technical question; My Sigma 50mm 2,8 macro has a diaphragm control ring which I must lock in P and S mode and need do nothing else. Wen using the A and M mode, you have to " unlock the button and set the diaphragm value by turning the ring". <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' /> I have never seen this! What does it actually mean? Do I have to adjust this for every different shot? I apologize in advance if my question is stupid, but would appreciate your help <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' /> Kindly Ignorant Wolf
[quote name='wim' timestamp='1284417974' post='2730']
I'sd suggest you first check out that which you used most in the past with your film slr, with regard to settings and mode of working, and continue slowly from there on.
IOW, if you used Av a lot, switch to that mode, and start using it. However, do yourself a favour and set the camera to store both raw and jpeg for now, after you have determined what jpeg settings you like contrast, sharpness, saturation and colour wise (just do some test shots). Leave WB on AWB for now; you can always correct from RAW if you need to.
Since you can always change settings after the fact when you shoot raw, I wouldn't worry too much about settings like B&W, landscape, protrait mode, whatever, until you get aroound to properly playing with these settings if you really need that. What you can remember, however, is that it is very easy to change iso for any shot, unlike with film, plus iso 1600 looks better than anything you could ever produce at that iso on film. So, use it if you need it, it isn't a problem, just use it and be amazed <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' />.
As to standard setings on the camera, you need to define your own standard settings first. For me, as indicated I guess, it is Av, because in 99 % of the cases I want to be in control of the aperture. Furthermore, my standard iso is 400. It was that in the film age with colour, and it works well enough for me now. I'll change down and up if needed, no problem, but always revert to 400 iso after the shoot. The same with any other settings: I just make sure all is set back to my standard settings before I switch off the camera, and I make sure I mount my standard lens too, ready for use as it were for most circumstances.
AF I set to the central AF point, single shot mode, and for any specific adjustments I generally use MF for override, or AF on a spot with good contrast that is the same distance away from the camera as the actual subject.
Metering I set normally to evaluative, but I don't know what that is on a Nikon. If needed, I will use other metering modes, but again always switch back to evaluative afterwards.
I also switch focusing to one of the other buttons, IOW, not directly linked to the shutter button, because every time I press it it will then refocus, which is in most cases not what I want.
Metering overrides, or exposure compensation I dial in as required, and again switch back after the shoot.
Flash sync I set to maximum standard sync speed, and at the second curtain, just in case I shoot something moving with flash, as that will allow for the stopping action of flash to occur at the end of the movement in the picture.
I hope this is enough for a start. I'll think a little longer to see if I can come up with anything else. Roughly, these are my standard settings, which I essentially revert to after every shoot, if I have switched on or off other modes or values etc.
Kind regards, Wim
[/quote]
Thank you Wim for always well structured advice. I wrote a long reply earlier today, but it disappeared. Anyways, I am trying to get my head around the process and little by little, I will. I will let you know as I proceed. Kindly Vieux Loup
[quote name='PuxaVida' timestamp='1284462118' post='2738']
Well here are my suggestions based on my experience on the D90. Ok D300s is something else, but I believe these can help you also:
- set the mode to "A", it gives you more control than other modes (except for specific types of shots)
- check the highest ISO number you can get without noise by trying test shots. Know your limits concerning the basics of exposure.
- assign a function to AE/AF Lock button (enabling focus & reframe)
- set the file type to "NEF"
- matrix metering works well with support of the active D-Lighting option. I use it mostly for landscape shots. For short ranges with less dynamic range I prefer the center weighted metering.
- use spot focus if you want to controll what you want to focus on. Among other fancy options, the 3D tracking mode can be used for moving objects (with AF-C mode for example).
- AF mode is also important. I'm not sure if it exist as in D90 but I'd suggest to set it initially to AF-A. AF-C is for moving subjects and AF-S has focus priority (you cannot shoot unless the subject is in focus). And AF-A is the auto version. After you get used to the body you can choose your own option.
- I don't know about the auto WB quality of D300s, but D90's is less than average. So use a white/gray card to set the WB optimally (especially if you prefer to shoot JPEG instead of NEF).
- Againg, a suggestion based on a D90 experience: I usually set the EV to -0,3 depending on the daylight and it works well. I believe the D90's sensor tends to overexpose. You might want to check this also in your D300s.
- last but not least, shoot as many pictures as you can in your warm-up phase. Getting used to the metering, focusing behaviour of the body and the customized combination of those becomes a real joy.
Kind regards,
Serkan
[/quote]
Hello again, I tried the underexposure and believe the D300s must be different from the D90 in that respect. I found that the result was pretty much what I expected just by setting the WB to what I believe was right without any exposure bracketing. I am shooting lots of pictures and will soon dare to show you some. I will certainly show you Fall pictures of a different character than what Rainer submitted. Probably not quite as beautiful, but different. <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' /> Kindly Vieux Loup
[quote name='Vieux loup' timestamp='1284484133' post='2749']
Technical question; My Sigma 50mm 2,8 macro has a diaphragm control ring which I must lock in P and S mode and need do nothing else. Wen using the A and M mode, you have to " unlock the button and set the diaphragm value by turning the ring". <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/huh.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' /> I have never seen this! What does it actually mean? Do I have to adjust this for every different shot? I apologize in advance if my question is stupid, but would appreciate your help <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=' ' /> Kindly Ignorant Wolf
[/quote]
That feature is only if you want to use the aperture ring on the lens. You don't have to use that ring. Just lock it at the smallest aperture (largest number) and have the camera set to automatically control aperture using the scroll wheel in front of the shutter button (default) and you are set. No need to adjust for every different shot.
I don't know if there'll be five things I always do, but here we go:
Check I have a card or two with space to take at least 50 photos.
Check I that I have a battery with enough juice for the amount of shots I'm taking.
Choose the lenses I'll take on any given day.
Choose the kind of photos I'll be taking given the available light and set my camera up accordingly.
The rest is fairly automatic and no different to shooting analogue. I don't bother with any specific image settings because if you shoot raw you can worry about all that when you get home.
The biggest issue I usually have is which/how many lenses, which bag, do I take a tripod or flash along ... all that kind of practical stuff.
[quote name='edge' timestamp='1284513902' post='2769']
That feature is only if you want to use the aperture ring on the lens. You don't have to use that ring. Just lock it at the smallest aperture (largest number) and have the camera set to automatically control aperture using the scroll wheel in front of the shutter button (default) and you are set. No need to adjust for every different shot.
[/quote]
Thank you Edge! I tried the lens on for the whole morning and it works fine. I made quite a lot of focusing mistakes when shooting macro, but I will try and adjust this afternoon. I assume the lens is right on and the unsharp pictures are my fault. I am very impressed by the speed and quietness of the lens. (Sigma 50mm 2,8 macro, EX HSM)Kindly Happy Wolf
|
