09-14-2010, 11:01 AM
Well here are my suggestions based on my experience on the D90. Ok D300s is something else, but I believe these can help you also:
- set the mode to "A", it gives you more control than other modes (except for specific types of shots)
- check the highest ISO number you can get without noise by trying test shots. Know your limits concerning the basics of exposure.
- assign a function to AE/AF Lock button (enabling focus & reframe)
- set the file type to "NEF"
- matrix metering works well with support of the active D-Lighting option. I use it mostly for landscape shots. For short ranges with less dynamic range I prefer the center weighted metering.
- use spot focus if you want to controll what you want to focus on. Among other fancy options, the 3D tracking mode can be used for moving objects (with AF-C mode for example).
- AF mode is also important. I'm not sure if it exist as in D90 but I'd suggest to set it initially to AF-A. AF-C is for moving subjects and AF-S has focus priority (you cannot shoot unless the subject is in focus). And AF-A is the auto version. After you get used to the body you can choose your own option.
- I don't know about the auto WB quality of D300s, but D90's is less than average. So use a white/gray card to set the WB optimally (especially if you prefer to shoot JPEG instead of NEF).
- Againg, a suggestion based on a D90 experience: I usually set the EV to -0,3 depending on the daylight and it works well. I believe the D90's sensor tends to overexpose. You might want to check this also in your D300s.
- last but not least, shoot as many pictures as you can in your warm-up phase. Getting used to the metering, focusing behaviour of the body and the customized combination of those becomes a real joy.
Kind regards,
Serkan
- set the mode to "A", it gives you more control than other modes (except for specific types of shots)
- check the highest ISO number you can get without noise by trying test shots. Know your limits concerning the basics of exposure.
- assign a function to AE/AF Lock button (enabling focus & reframe)
- set the file type to "NEF"
- matrix metering works well with support of the active D-Lighting option. I use it mostly for landscape shots. For short ranges with less dynamic range I prefer the center weighted metering.
- use spot focus if you want to controll what you want to focus on. Among other fancy options, the 3D tracking mode can be used for moving objects (with AF-C mode for example).
- AF mode is also important. I'm not sure if it exist as in D90 but I'd suggest to set it initially to AF-A. AF-C is for moving subjects and AF-S has focus priority (you cannot shoot unless the subject is in focus). And AF-A is the auto version. After you get used to the body you can choose your own option.
- I don't know about the auto WB quality of D300s, but D90's is less than average. So use a white/gray card to set the WB optimally (especially if you prefer to shoot JPEG instead of NEF).
- Againg, a suggestion based on a D90 experience: I usually set the EV to -0,3 depending on the daylight and it works well. I believe the D90's sensor tends to overexpose. You might want to check this also in your D300s.
- last but not least, shoot as many pictures as you can in your warm-up phase. Getting used to the metering, focusing behaviour of the body and the customized combination of those becomes a real joy.
Kind regards,
Serkan