09-27-2014, 10:41 AM
Quote:Recently I become interested in shooting films. So, I bought an old film camera and an old lens, from about 60s. The first thing I need to do is to check if the camera and lens work properly. So last week I put a Fujicolor C200 in it and shoot mainly out door.Which camera and lens did you acquire? I have two SLRs originating from the 1960's (Nikon Nikkormat FTn (from 1967 to 1975), and a Chinon Chinonflex TTL (from 1966 to ?)). Both have a TTL meter. I bought e Chinonflex because of the lenses it came with (M42 55mm f1.4 Autoreflecta, a Tomioka lens) and a Chinonflex 200mm f3.5 (also M42 of course). Both apparently render beautifully (that is why I bought them), but I will have to find a home for that Chinonflex TTL.
The camera is mechanical without a meter. I downloaded a Pocket Light Meter app from the apple store. The app has a good review record on the internet. So I expect it should work reasonably right.
Quote:So, I shoot a roll of Fujicolor C200, metered with the Pocket Light Meter app. Then I sent the film roll to a local shop for development, printing, and negative scanning.I think you probably can't trust either. The prints are done automatically, and the machines do adjust lighting depending on what they think should be correct. Negative scanning the same, most scanners adjust the brightness to what they think it should be. So, hard to say if the negatives are exposed "correctly".
Yesterday I received the prints and the scanned images. When I look at the prints, I find the exposure is reasonably "correct" for most of them (with only a few maybe slightly overexposed). Based on the print observation, I would say that the camera works properly with reasonable accuracy in shutter speeds. However, when I look at the images scanned from the negative, almost all images look too bright (by 1/2-1 stop, I would say). This impression is confirmed by checking the exposure histogram in Photoshop CS6.
My question is: why the scanned image is not consistent with the print (in brightness, I know contrast can be different)? Does it meen the scanning was not done properly? For the purpose of checking exposure of my camera, should I trust the scanned image, or the prints?
Comments and suggestions are welcome.
About the metering.... You can meter with your DSLR in spot metering, on a mid tone. Then you can copy its settings to your film SLR, and unless the light changes, all images will be "correctly" exposed.