[frank]

Which camera and lens did you acquire? I have two SLRs originating from the 1960's (Nikon Nikkormat FTn (from 1967 to 1975), and a Chinon Chinonflex TTL (from 1966 to ?)). Both have a TTL meter. I bought e Chinonflex because of the lenses it came with (M42 55mm f1.4 Autoreflecta, a Tomioka lens) and a Chinonflex 200mm f3.5 (also M42 of course). Both apparently render beautifully (that is why I bought them), but I will have to find a home for that Chinonflex TTL.

 

I am tired of DSLRs. So, when I started looking for a film camera, I was focused RFs instead of SLRs. After thinking and searching for several months, I ended in buying a Leica M2 in a mint condition. A Leitz Summaron 35/2.8 was with the camera and seemingly also in a nice condition (though not as mint as the camera). So I bought the lens too.

 

After I received the lens and camera, I found that the aperture blades of the lens have some marks of scratching/scraping, most noticeably the white line in the 6pm position in the attached image. I need still find out if it will affect the image.

 

The camera seems works properly in every apsect, though I need test if the shutter speeds are reasonably accurate. I find that the black painting on the back cover of the camera is quite soft. After using it for about only an hour outdoor, a couple of places on the black painting were scatched off by the plastic buttons on my shirt and the white metal can be seen (about 1mm in diameter of each scratched spot).

 

 

I think you probably can't trust either. The prints are done automatically, and the machines do adjust lighting depending on what they think should be correct. Negative scanning the same, most scanners adjust the brightness to what they think it should be. So, hard to say if the negatives are exposed "correctly".

 

Thank you for your opinions. I just find the scanning was a quite a mess. They cut the film and scanned each piece of the film separately.  Not only the output images are ordered somewhat chaotically, also the brightness and colors of the images vary considerably from piece to piece. Perhaps I should asked them to scan before the film was cut into pieces (but I don't know if this is possible).

 

 

About the metering.... You can meter with your DSLR in spot metering, on a mid tone. Then you can copy its settings to your film SLR, and unless the light changes, all images will be "correctly" exposed.

 

I am not sure if I can use a DSLR or MFT camera to meter, since as far as I know their native ISOs are usually not quite accurate. For a long run with the mechanical RF I think I should start to practice with the sunny  f16 rule.