[Brightcolours]

I am tired of DSLRs. So, when I started looking for a film camera, I was focused RFs instead of SLRs. After thinking and searching for several months, I ended in buying a Leica M2 in a mint condition. A Leitz Summaron 35/2.8 was with the camera and seemingly also in a nice condition (though not as mint as the camera). So I bought the lens too.
 
After I received the lens and camera, I found that the aperture blades of the lens have some marks of scratching/scraping, most noticeably the white line in the 6pm position in the attached image. I need still find out if it will affect the image.
The camera seems works properly in every apsect, though I need test if the shutter speeds are reasonably accurate.

Film is a bit easier on the exposure, a slight deviation never really hurts. Apertures went by the full stop, as did exposure times. I tested my old Agfa Record II by just setting it to 1 and 0.5 seconds and doing the same with my 6D, and see if they ended the exposure at the same time (they did). Of course, I am sure that the Leica has a more advanced shutter timer.

I find that the black painting on the back cover of the camera is quite soft. After using it for about only an hour outdoor, a couple of places on the black painting were scatched off by the plastic buttons on my shirt and the white metal can be seen (about 1mm in diameter of each scratched spot).
 
Thank you for your opinions. I just find the scanning was a quite a mess. They cut the film and scanned each piece of the film separately.  Not only the output images are ordered somewhat chaotically, also the brightness and colors of the images vary considerably from piece to piece. Perhaps I should asked them to scan before the film was cut into pieces (but I don't know if this is possible).

Probably the best way is to get yourself a flatbed scanner which is affordable, and scan then for yourself. Like an Epson V500/550.
 

I am not sure if I can use a DSLR or MFT camera to meter, since as far as I know their native ISOs are usually not quite accurate. For a long run with the mechanical RF I think I should start to practice with the sunny  f16 rule.

Well, film never really is the ISO it says on the package either, it does not have to be THAT precise. A camera with spot meter will get you in the ballpark, and will get you an idea about the shutter duration accuracy. I find using a camera a tad easier than a light meter. But that probably is also due to lack of experience.