09-18-2010, 03:42 PM
[quote name='Vieux loup' timestamp='1284820833' post='2894']
Thanks B! I will immediately change the spelling <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='
' /> I took the Tamron out for a walk today, but the rain cut my plans short <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/angry.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' /> I must say that I find it heavy and long and the hood almost doubles the length of the lens. Obviously a lens for specific use only, allthough I do not doubt that you can get good portraits from it. The AF was "gearing" a little too much for my liking, never seemed to be able to make up its mind. There is an animal park not far and I will try to make a visit tomorrow or Monday. Must say I find the 16-85 excellent as an everyday use lense.
When you say that you shoot all macro handheld, what kind of sharpness do you expect or get? I seem to be able to crop 100% and still have good sharpness, but it disappears quickly when you move towards 200% Is this normal? I must say the 85mm or 105 mm Nikons with VR sound tempting! Wim, you shoot landscapes all the time. Do you also mostly shoot handheld? I wish you all a nice Sunday's shooting. Kindly Loup d'Azur!
[/quote]
200% does not make much sense, in my opinion. Photos need to be viewed in normal ways.
VR does not do much at macro, your back and forth movement is more than any vertical or horizontal movement. WIth a 105 or 85mm VR you will at most gain 1 stop, if that. The Canon 100mm f2.8 L IS macro in combination with a 7D is a little bit better in that respect, as it has a hybrid IS system which corrects more than one type of movement, and it can also (in connection with continuous AF) correct you moving front and back. But that is not all that important, as hand held macro is what it is and can be done without any VR.
The normal rule of thumb about hand held exposure times is 1/focal length exposure time. So, 50mm -> 1/50th sec, 200mm -> 1/200th sec.
With macro that does not really apply, as the close distance also magnifies the camera shake.
Sharpness I get from handheld macro usually is fine. But I must also note that with my photography sharpness is not paramount, my work is more creative than purely documenting a bug with the biggest DOF and the best sharpness.
What people who do obsess about sharpness and big DOF often use is flash to keep the exposure speed down. I find flash use less attractive, so I do not use it.
For me, light, colour and composition, atmosphere, are more important than "critical sharpness".
About the 80-200mm you mentioned... you already find the 70-300 tamron to be heavy and big. That 80-200 is more than twice as heavy, and bigger... and has no VR. Get used to this tele lens, I would say, like you should get sued to your 50mm macro and your 16-85. In time you will find out what you miss or don't miss on your current set up, and when you have put your finger on things you want to do but can't (like maybe a good blur and bokeh at portrait focal lengths) you will know what to change or what to add to your set up.
Thanks B! I will immediately change the spelling <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='
' /> I took the Tamron out for a walk today, but the rain cut my plans short <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/angry.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' /> I must say that I find it heavy and long and the hood almost doubles the length of the lens. Obviously a lens for specific use only, allthough I do not doubt that you can get good portraits from it. The AF was "gearing" a little too much for my liking, never seemed to be able to make up its mind. There is an animal park not far and I will try to make a visit tomorrow or Monday. Must say I find the 16-85 excellent as an everyday use lense.When you say that you shoot all macro handheld, what kind of sharpness do you expect or get? I seem to be able to crop 100% and still have good sharpness, but it disappears quickly when you move towards 200% Is this normal? I must say the 85mm or 105 mm Nikons with VR sound tempting! Wim, you shoot landscapes all the time. Do you also mostly shoot handheld? I wish you all a nice Sunday's shooting. Kindly Loup d'Azur!
[/quote]
200% does not make much sense, in my opinion. Photos need to be viewed in normal ways.
VR does not do much at macro, your back and forth movement is more than any vertical or horizontal movement. WIth a 105 or 85mm VR you will at most gain 1 stop, if that. The Canon 100mm f2.8 L IS macro in combination with a 7D is a little bit better in that respect, as it has a hybrid IS system which corrects more than one type of movement, and it can also (in connection with continuous AF) correct you moving front and back. But that is not all that important, as hand held macro is what it is and can be done without any VR.
The normal rule of thumb about hand held exposure times is 1/focal length exposure time. So, 50mm -> 1/50th sec, 200mm -> 1/200th sec.
With macro that does not really apply, as the close distance also magnifies the camera shake.
Sharpness I get from handheld macro usually is fine. But I must also note that with my photography sharpness is not paramount, my work is more creative than purely documenting a bug with the biggest DOF and the best sharpness.
What people who do obsess about sharpness and big DOF often use is flash to keep the exposure speed down. I find flash use less attractive, so I do not use it.
For me, light, colour and composition, atmosphere, are more important than "critical sharpness".
About the 80-200mm you mentioned... you already find the 70-300 tamron to be heavy and big. That 80-200 is more than twice as heavy, and bigger... and has no VR. Get used to this tele lens, I would say, like you should get sued to your 50mm macro and your 16-85. In time you will find out what you miss or don't miss on your current set up, and when you have put your finger on things you want to do but can't (like maybe a good blur and bokeh at portrait focal lengths) you will know what to change or what to add to your set up.