06-21-2017, 11:17 PM
Wim, of course I tell you I cannot shoot fully the way I like to if I I get certain cameras. At least not like sit in, turn the ignition key and off you ride.
Find a self timer. Check which AF mode you're in. Find the white balance. Find the exposure mode. Which wheel for aperture? How to set up ISO, how exposure correction?
I can find that with a lot of try and error. Sure, all have a sort of release button, but most people do not know what an AF-ON button is for, when to press it and how to move a focus point. Please do not pretend as if these things were clear on each device
.
You can drive your new car, instantly, you know how to find the warning lights. A lot of controls are very similar in cars and for the head lights there are maybe two or three main ways to turn them on. It doesn't matter what's on the 500 pages more. You will get from A to B without problems. Except you have to program the GPS but eben then... if you're not doing it the first time.
Right now I came back to this thread because I found a beautiful example of maximum ignorance of UI designers.
Here's the (new, introduced with the latest firmware) setting for the dual display of the X-T2. There are two frames in the display/EVF, a small and big one. Here I can decide, which one should be the one with enlarged view to focus and which the one to frame.
Text says R (on the left side of the line) and L (on the right side of the line). Given they mean likely Right and Left - why not order the text that way? And why put tow Icons in in the opposite sense of what the text is saying?
![[Image: i-zWGD9VK-M.jpg]](https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-zWGD9VK/0/d892c62c/M/i-zWGD9VK-M.jpg)
This is the result of the above setting. The red line round the apple is quite hard to detect and framing in the small rectangle is a joke - but Fuji fanboys would have dozens suggestions how to handle this specific situation. None of them would suit to normal AF afterwards, but who cares? Originally, the big frame was for framing and the small to set up a split screen. I'm sure there are happy users, but I do it mostly in AF-S, override the result and try to hold the lens in this focus setting.
![[Image: i-vsq8mMC-M.jpg]](https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-vsq8mMC/0/965f3fbe/M/i-vsq8mMC-M.jpg)
Find a self timer. Check which AF mode you're in. Find the white balance. Find the exposure mode. Which wheel for aperture? How to set up ISO, how exposure correction?
I can find that with a lot of try and error. Sure, all have a sort of release button, but most people do not know what an AF-ON button is for, when to press it and how to move a focus point. Please do not pretend as if these things were clear on each device
.You can drive your new car, instantly, you know how to find the warning lights. A lot of controls are very similar in cars and for the head lights there are maybe two or three main ways to turn them on. It doesn't matter what's on the 500 pages more. You will get from A to B without problems. Except you have to program the GPS but eben then... if you're not doing it the first time.
Right now I came back to this thread because I found a beautiful example of maximum ignorance of UI designers.
Here's the (new, introduced with the latest firmware) setting for the dual display of the X-T2. There are two frames in the display/EVF, a small and big one. Here I can decide, which one should be the one with enlarged view to focus and which the one to frame.
Text says R (on the left side of the line) and L (on the right side of the line). Given they mean likely Right and Left - why not order the text that way? And why put tow Icons in in the opposite sense of what the text is saying?
This is the result of the above setting. The red line round the apple is quite hard to detect and framing in the small rectangle is a joke - but Fuji fanboys would have dozens suggestions how to handle this specific situation. None of them would suit to normal AF afterwards, but who cares? Originally, the big frame was for framing and the small to set up a split screen. I'm sure there are happy users, but I do it mostly in AF-S, override the result and try to hold the lens in this focus setting.