06-06-2022, 04:54 PM
I'd suggest you start shooting at approximately 50x effective focal length for distance to start off with, of a static object, with and without IBIS switched on.
The problem with IBIS is that it depends a lot on the person whether it will work properly. Some have steadier hands than others, which is why you need to compare shots with and without IBIS, at the same apertures and shutter speeds.
In addition, IBIS doesn't work too well with macro due to the additional magnification you get at macro distances. In that case it is again a matter of comparing what you can do handheld without IBIS, vs what is possible with IBIS, so each time at the same focusing distance with the same aperture and shutter speed, with and without IBIS.
In itself shooting landscapes is fine for a test like that, just that the objects in a landscape often are fairly far away, and make it therefore difficult to see whether something is sharp or unsharp due to OOF objects, haze, a too slow shutter speed, or just shake, which is why I suggested 50x effective focal distance. At least objects are more clearly visible that way. You could also shoot a brick wall with fine detail, from, say, 5 meters away, with and without IBIS switched on, all other parameters staying the same. It is much more convenient to do it that way than shooting landscapes. You could also try a test chart, for that matter.
HTH, kind regards, WIm
The problem with IBIS is that it depends a lot on the person whether it will work properly. Some have steadier hands than others, which is why you need to compare shots with and without IBIS, at the same apertures and shutter speeds.
In addition, IBIS doesn't work too well with macro due to the additional magnification you get at macro distances. In that case it is again a matter of comparing what you can do handheld without IBIS, vs what is possible with IBIS, so each time at the same focusing distance with the same aperture and shutter speed, with and without IBIS.
In itself shooting landscapes is fine for a test like that, just that the objects in a landscape often are fairly far away, and make it therefore difficult to see whether something is sharp or unsharp due to OOF objects, haze, a too slow shutter speed, or just shake, which is why I suggested 50x effective focal distance. At least objects are more clearly visible that way. You could also shoot a brick wall with fine detail, from, say, 5 meters away, with and without IBIS switched on, all other parameters staying the same. It is much more convenient to do it that way than shooting landscapes. You could also try a test chart, for that matter.
HTH, kind regards, WIm
Gear: Canon EOS R with 3 primes and 2 zooms, 4 EF-R adapters, Canon EOS 5 (analog), 9 Canon EF primes, a lone Canon EF zoom, 2 extenders, 2 converters, tubes; Olympus OM-D 1 Mk II & Pen F with 12 primes, 6 zooms, and 3 Metabones EF-MFT adapters ....
