[haring]

Don't you mind sharing your macro setup when you photograph table top, jewelry?

- Tripod

- camera

- digital back (if applicable)

- lens

- macro rail

- lights

- did I miss anything?



Thanks a lot!

[Guest]

Like, catalogue style jewellery shots? From my own experience, tripod and camera makes the least difference, with the exception of the lens - in this case the longer (I use 105mm) the better, as short lenses don't work well with lightcubes <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='<_<' />



The thing which matters is the light - my basic set-up is studio desk with backlight and 2 softboxes (+1 overhead sometimes), however it often depends on the type of jewellery. For example it helps having really strong backlight for glass beads, but it's completely opposite with pearls (loses the contour). Lightcube is a must for silver, however hard light is needed for diamonds, otherwise they look dull, and so on and so forth. So it's sort of difficult to speak of some “standard” set-up. Plus there’s a heap of small accessories to make my life easier, such as LED sparklers for diamonds, frame with fishing line for earrings, black cardboard for silver outlining, white curtains for very reflective surfaces, etc, etc <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' />

[dave9t5]

[quote name='haring' timestamp='1303042976' post='7696']

Don't you mind sharing your macro setup when you photograph table top, jewelry?

- Tripod

- camera

- digital back (if applicable)

- lens

- macro rail

- lights

- did I miss anything?



Thanks a lot!

[/quote]



My experience with shooting metallic objects (i.e. bicycles and parts), is you should use a lens with very low chromatic aberrations (and a lens/body with low purple-fringing).



I use a Voigtlaender 90mm APO-Lanthar and 58mm Nokton (for larger objects) both of which have been excellent in those regards. For small parts, it will help with the lighting to have a lens with at least 90~105mm focal length. Most of the macro lenses is this range have very low CA. I have seen some outstanding pocket-watch photography with the Sigma 70mm as well.

[wim]

Tripod: as sturdy as you can afford. It can be an old one, no problem. I use a Slik SL-67 Prototype indoors, a very heavy., 30 year old aluminum and metal 6X7 medium format tripod (for FF digital work <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' />). Outdoors I normally use a fairly big Gitzo Basalt (I'd like to get a carbon fibre version, but that'll have to wait a little <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' />).

Camera: a good APS-C dslr will do nicely. If you want to get the most out of the picture, I'd recommend FF (which is what I use nowadays, Canon 5D Mk II). BTW, I started with a Canon 350D, progressed to 400D, 40D, and 5D before getting the 5D II.

Digital back: n/a

Lens: preferably tilt-shift, and for me that is TS-E 45 or TS-E 90. The reason for this is that I want to be able to put the DoF plane exactly where I want it, along a certain line, and I don't want to struggle with stopping down to F/22 and beyond, still not get everything in DoF I want, and end up with a soso image due to diffraction. The TS-Es, because of their shift-ability, can also eb moved outside of the reflection area as a result. Besides this, bokeh of the TS-Es is phenomenal.

Macro rail: as indicated in the other topic you started, I use both a Manfrotto and a Novoflex, simple version, often in combination (at 90 degree), to eb able to move sideways and back anfd forth without having to reposition the camera. IOW, I use this option for reframing, for shooting different details.

Lights: 5 or 6 flashes, positioned around a light tent, one or two being the main lights controlled by the camera, the others cheap flashes with slave units, either built-in or add-ons.

Did I miss anything: Yes, there are a few things <img src='http://forum.photozone.de/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='' />.

1) Light tent, the bigger the better, minimum size is really 60 cm cubed, or 2 feet cubed, but larger is better in order to keep backgrounds, sides, and underground as far as posible from object. Yes, this can be done with smaller sized light tents, but I can't recommend it. Also, if you can find one, preferably one which has two rather than just one hole that can be covered up. That way you can experiment more easily with harsher lighting as well, and cover up things in the garden or the field without having to remove it (put light tent over, e.g. a flower, through the one hole, and shoot through the other), if you'd like to shoot there. This also helps with larger props.

2) A bunch of smallish tripods for the flashes used. I have a bunch of table clamp tripods, and a buch of cheapo small ones, so I can position them more easily.

3) Remote control, wired or wireless, either via USB or via camera connector

4) Camera set to MLU, wait at least 10 seconds between MLU and actual shot. You need a minimum of 4-6 seconds, so better be safe than sorry.

5) Hook up camera to computer. I use the USB cable with a USB amplifier/extender (so the cable does not get in the way), and EOS utility. That way I can immediately see what adjustments i need to make. And if need be, I can also use it to control the camera.

6) Different undergrounds/backgrounds for the light tent if so required. I have a few, but I mostly use the tent plain, as its sides take care of relative soft lighting, and maybe a few different small cloth and other undergrounds.

7) Different coloured perspex display tables. I have a blank transparant, blue, black and grey one. That is for those nicely reflected images. Expensive, but worth it.

8) Dust cleaner, all sorts of, wet, dry, microfibre, spray, canned air, etc. Any dust removed beforehand means less work afterwards with the healing brush and/or clone stamp. You'll be amazed how much dust there is for us to see.



That was probably about it.



BTW, with the cheap flashes I experiment by placing them further away and closer by if needed. I also often like to use a flash light positioned right behind an object (outside the light tent of course), to provide a little halo effect, to make it stand out more.



HTH, kind regards, Wim

[haring]

I want the TSE 90mm badly!!! Oh boy, I am jealous!