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Z50 in the lab soon
#21
(12-22-2019, 01:20 PM)JJ_SO Wrote: Also, if I need to remember which values I set for Auto-ISO 1, 2, 3 and need to dive even deeper into the menu to find out, I feel that's a poor concept.

You don't have to remember them. If you quick switch ISO by assigning it to any of the customizable Fn-buttons (as described above), a scrollable list of all ISO settings shows up on the rear display in the live image, including the 3 Auto ISO settings. When selected/highlighted, all the values are displayed right there next to the entry, no need to dive into any menu.

I guess it's a matter of taste if one prefers the Nikon approach with the banks/user settings. For me personally, they store too many settings, of which I usually only one to change one, not all of them, so I rarely ever use them since they simply don't fit into my workflow. And, while we're at it: I also don't use Auto-ISO at all Wink
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#22
Now I downloaded the manual for the Z 50 - have it the way you wanted! Big Grin

So, you push a button and then select an ISO value on the X-T30. At some place in this long list will wait the AutoISO settings.

On Z 50 you push the ISO button and turn on or off Auto ISO with the front dial or select (and override at the same time, if AutoISO is active) the ISO value with the rear dial. I fail to see a big difference? Especially the override bit is new to me, I can't do that on Z 7/6

On rare occasions I DON'T use AutoISO, such as studio works, architecture and landscape - everywhere else AutoISO is active as I do not care much about noise but do care about aperture and shutter speed. Noise is hardly an element of composition, at least in most pictures - the other parameters are.

And the way my two Fujis are set up with ISO values is different from what you describe. In the Q-menu it's only the top value of AutoISO, not the low limit. In the menu there's a list of ISO values and three entries AutoISO▸ and after another click I can see the values but not as an overview.

Again, why 3 AutoISO (to set up and remember) but no U1..3? I admit it's time consuming to set up these banks and User settings - but after it's done, it's a time saver, especially since the banks can be named. U1..3 is as difficult to remember (which settings are for what) as AutoISO 1...3 - and within the Z series, one cannot export them and import it to another Z camera - it has to be the same type.
#23
(12-22-2019, 02:49 PM)JJ_SO Wrote: On Z 50 you push the ISO button and turn on or off Auto ISO with the front dial or select (and override at the same time, if AutoISO is active) the ISO value with the rear dial. I fail to see a big difference? Especially the override bit is new to me, I can't do that on Z 7/6

Thanks for this find... I honestly simply missed this feature in the manual. So, can we agree that the Auto-ISO with the Z50 is not as bad as I thought, while the implementation in the X-T30 it's more flexible than in your X-T2? Wink

(12-22-2019, 02:49 PM)JJ_SO Wrote: On rare occasions I DON'T use AutoISO, such as studio works, architecture and landscape - everywhere else AutoISO is active as I do not care much about noise but do care about aperture and shutter speed. Noise is hardly an element of composition, at least in most pictures - the other parameters are.

Well, of course shutter speed and aperture are the main tools, same here. I do however prefer to stay as low as possible with ISO and then set aperture (usually) or shutter speed (only when the subject requires) accordingly.
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#24
(12-23-2019, 07:20 AM)mst Wrote:
(12-22-2019, 02:49 PM)JJ_SO Wrote: On Z 50 you push the ISO button and turn on or off Auto ISO with the front dial or select (and override at the same time, if AutoISO is active) the ISO value with the rear dial. I fail to see a big difference? Especially the override bit is new to me, I can't do that on Z 7/6

Thanks for this find... I honestly simply missed this feature in the manual. So, can we agree that the Auto-ISO with the Z50 is not as bad as I thought, while the implementation in the X-T30 it's more flexible than in your X-T2? Wink

Sure. Not knowing the X-T30's behaviour and not want to read another manual to find out, I can only add "why does Fuji need to change their menu systems all the time?"

(12-23-2019, 07:20 AM)mst Wrote:
(12-22-2019, 02:49 PM)JJ_SO Wrote: On rare occasions I DON'T use AutoISO, such as studio works, architecture and landscape - everywhere else AutoISO is active as I do not care much about noise but do care about aperture and shutter speed. Noise is hardly an element of composition, at least in most pictures - the other parameters are.

Well, of course shutter speed and aperture are the main tools, same here. I do however prefer to stay as low as possible with ISO and then set aperture (usually) or shutter speed (only when the subject requires) accordingly.
Given the camera also doesn't run to max out ISO as there's only one ISO value possible to a given aperture / shutter speed combination, I can't see an advantage to set this very ISO value manually. 
Except maybe (and that again is X-T2 / X-E2 behaviour) that the lower ISO (Fuji calls that here "standard sensitivity") are also limited by my settings, like AutoISO 1: 200-800, Auto ISO 3: 1600-12800. So, if I'm in AutoISO 3 I fist need to switch to a lower AutoISO or manually choose a lower setting - that's quickly done with X-T2's dial and much less quickly with X-E2's menu. The ISO dial however... 
I could show you two pictures, one taken with ISO 200 and the other with ISO 280 or one with ISO 6400 and the other with ISO 8000. And I doubt you can tell the difference. This ⅓ step between ISO is just another symptom of brainless design. While A, L and H are just neighbours on the dial and easy to confuse, Fuji users apparently need to be able to adjust ISO by ⅓  EV step.
#25
I am happy that you have the Z50 for testing. I would love to see reviews of the 16-50 and 50-250 kit lenses. Ken Rockwell says that the 16-50 kit lens is sharper than the 16-80 DX lens, which is one of the best lenses for the Nikon DX SLR cameras.
#26
(12-26-2019, 02:52 PM)ExtraLargeFormat Wrote: Ken Rockwell says that the 16-50 kit lens is sharper than the 16-80 DX lens, which is one of the best lenses for the Nikon DX SLR cameras.

Let me put it this way: you might be aware that Ken has a, uhm, mixed reputation among photographers and especially gear heads, so please allow me to comment: not neccessarily everything he writes or says is based on careful lab testing and/or profound knowledge and experience Wink

I haven't been on his website for many years, but just for the fun of reading his findings on 'one of the best lenses for DX', I couldn't resist.

Two remarks, if you don't mind: he writes that the lens is 'ultrasharp' and 'optically flawless'. Well, his impression of 'ultrasharp' might be coming from the fact that he shot all his 'review' samples as basic (not fine) JPGs with sharpening set to +9... on a scale ranging from -3 to +9 Wink In other words: his images are simply oversharpened. With that setting, likely any lens will seem to be 'ultrasharp'.

Regarding distortion, allow me to quote from his text: 'Obviously no distortion in the 16-50mm, for which we can't turn off Auto Distortion Control even if we wanted to in the Z50.'
Do I really need to comment on that? Wink
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#27
Poor old Ken still getting flac Smile

  He started doing video reviews these days ..... mostly light hearted overviews using his point and shoot style photography with the most garish of colour settings ....... and guess what, he likes the Z50 more than the Z6/7!
 
  Really, he is a kind of hands on "Nikon amateur historian" recounting the good old days of Nikon film cameras, press photographers and D series lenses .... he never left it behind.
  Still he has a mine of information on his website about old Nikkor lenses, whether a lens bayonet had a mat or bright chrome finish? .... or whether the lens box was of corrugated cardboard ....... what weight they actually are etc. ....... the most essential information of course.
 Still somethings has to keep paying the bills on his palm tree lined huge house!

  He made a career out of it for all those decades ......... I mean how shrewd is that? Smile
#28
Not to spoil the fun, but Nikon just replaced some of their text modules in the manual for the Z 50.

In short, it's less "weather-sealed" (whatever that means, as long as their is no reliable spec like IP 65, I aint gonna give much on this anyway) than the "bigger" bodies.

For more information (although only Google translated kind of info) see: https://nikonrumors.com/2019/12/26/nikon...ore-141517

BUT: The body still could be drip tight enough, I just thought, the new kit lenses might be the leaky part - and as soon as humidity or dust find it's way through the lens, the body can be super sealed and still get wet from the inside.
  


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