Doesn't seem like too much of a stretch to correct for that also. Assuming the camera has GPS you know the latitude and altitude and thus how the camera is moving due to the Earth. The correction then needs to consider the direction in which the camera is pointed relative to the motion. Give some engineer good at maths a large mug of coffee and you're done.
I might have simplified things a bit there, as I don't know what level of precision is needed to be effective. The sensors like those in smartphones are crude and there will likely need to be extra filtering to eliminate short term interference.
<a class="bbc_url" href="http://snowporing.deviantart.com/">dA</a> Canon 7D2, 7D, 5D2, 600D, 450D, 300D IR modified, 1D, EF-S 10-18, 15-85, EF 35/2, 85/1.8, 135/2, 70-300L, 100-400L, MP-E65, Zeiss 2/50, Sigma 150 macro, 120-300/2.8, Samyang 8mm fisheye, Olympus E-P1, Panasonic 20/1.7, Sony HX9V, Fuji X100.
Dang just our luck; we're stuck on a planet that spins too fast.
I only take pictures in total darkness and am now up to 300 f-stops with no visible shake! B)
If there really has to be some light involved, sticky tape and some pounds of superglue is sufficient.
Phew! Ican stop spinning the whole planet just like the Superman!!! However my head is spinning all the time...
We gotta find a flat Earth instead.
A flat eart would not move?
Honestly, I didn't understand why the thing matters... Do they suppose that, while taking the exposure, the camera moves independently of the planet rotation, because the photographer's body compensate for it?
Sony a6300, Sony a6000, Sony NEX-6, Sony E 10-18mm F4 OSS, Sony Zeiss Vario-Tessar T* E 16-70mm F4 ZA OSS, Sony FE 70-200mm F4 G OSS, Sigma 150-600mm Æ’/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary, Samyang 12mm Æ’/2, Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN | A, Meyer Gorlitz Trioplan 100mm Æ’/2.8, Samyang 8mm Æ’/3.5 fish-eye II | Zenit Helios 44-2 58mm Æ’/2
Plus some legacy Nikkor lenses.