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considering a switch back to primes
#11
Quote:What good is a short shutter lag if the image eventually is out of focus? and talking about 0.01 or 0.05 sec - 1/100 or 1/20 sec may matter, but at 11fps I still think the my soon to be bought X-T2 Smile  will get more shots in focus. And the X100/10/20 are not meant as action cams, so no point in wishing something what will not happen. I don't know of any fixlens prime APS-C at 90 mm, as you would wish a fast lens, meaning, thin DoF, meaning no optical VF - you just would not see what's in focus.

 

I really looking forward to find out how the X-T2 will be like compared to the also APS-C D500  ^_^ although rumours exist that Nikon is working on a bigger sensor mirrorless, but^will tey deliver convincing to gettiing back Fuji owners? I doubt it.
 

My E-P5 is 0.05s.  It matters for me - with the E-P5 I am often to late (my E-M10 is worse), while with the X20 the facial expression is there. 

 

Considering "out of focus", it depends on the degree of "out of focus".  You read R. Capa?  The most interesting photobook I ever read.  There is more to photography than "in focus".

 

Will your 11 fps machine gun capture the moment or are you just filling your hard-drive?

enjoy
#12
From Joachim to Joachim: A shutter lag remains a shutter lag, meaning, you can push the button whenever you like, the picture will never happen at the same time. It will never be real time. At least the shutter curtain needs to jump into place. But when I use electronic shutter, there's very close to no delay, given, I could focus and the camera finished exposure metering. A blinking lasts for 0.3 until 0.4 s (300-400 millisecs, says wikipedia). Just to put things in relation... I doubt that I would notice the difference of 0.04 sec.

 

If you want 0 shutter lag, take a video cam, at 60 fps there's a 0.0166 s period from picture to picture Wink, So you will always record the facial expression you otherwise lost because of the 0.04 s difference. If you miss the shot because of this delay, maybe you should work on better reaction and start to play ping-pong or other fast reacting sports as a training.

 

And the quality of 4k video is pretty close to what an X20 and deliver

 

With 11 fps there's a chance to catch the right moment with some moving subjects.

 

And even if Robert Capa made some great pictures which were technically far away from "perfect" (whatever that means to each person individually): Capa is no excuse for simply blurred shots  <_<

#13
My essential questions: 20 or 24 mm and 28 or 35mm

My Sigma 20mmf1.8 gave me plenty of great keepers on 300D and 30D. However not sure about full frame, should I get 24 or 20mm ?

For the other issue, it's easy: Will get the yongnuo 35mmf2.0 if it's fine going 35 otherwise 28, I can always donate this cheap lens like I did with the 50f1.8
#14
The yongnuo 35mm f2 remains a crap lens. Not sure why you keep on wanting it to be something else. Why not get the EF 35mm f2, exactly? It runs circles around the bad yongnuo clone, and is cheap too. Or... why not get a GOOD EF 35mm f2 IS USM.

 

You have the Tokina 16-28mm f2.8, so you can easily find out which focal length you prefer on FF, 20mm or 24mm...

#15
Why does it have to be EITHER primes OR zooms? A good zoom like the 16-35/4L IS (I know I'm sounding like a stuck record here) replaces a bag of primes and adds a lot on top. Get that (or a similar Nikon if you're on that system) and keep a few primes (50 + 85/100) above that.

The Sigma 20/1.8 doesn't look like a good lens even in the old APS-C test (on Canon 350D Klaus used in the days of yore). Coupled with it being an old type Sigma with all the attendant mechanical, ahem, peculiarities, I would not want to go back to it.
#16
Up in the cliffs at Les Gorges du Tarn the other day I used the AF20mm F2.8D on the D750, still wasn't wide enough; 

 

 For Nikon it's simple the AFD series of primes, got the AF28mm F2.8 the D version recently, probably the least good of the series but very fine at F8-11.

 

 Another birdie lens and you know much they are!!!

 

Now I would like to find a birdie Samyang 14mm F2.8 for the magnificent Gorges du Tarn.

 

I've never looked but surely for Canon there must be bucket loads of S/H lenses on the market, more than for Nikon I would have thought!

#17
I agree the 16-35/4 l is looks good, but i'm not sure it replaces a 35mm prime. There is something about fast wide angles that isn't replicated by slower lenses or smaller formats. The subject isolation from a 5d 35l combination is a different world compared to my x100. Admittedly the 16-35 works rather well  as a walk around lens while sight seeing (if you want to carry an slr that is).

#18
And the awful IQ from the Yongnuo 35mm f2 wide open also is worlds apart Wink

#19
Quote:What set would be ideal ?
 

Hi Toni,

 

this is quite obviously the wrong question!

What is (eventually) ideal to me, might be next to

worthless for you.

 

For a while (still in analog times) I used a 35+85 set ...

and I was really happy with that ... then I started to

change my interests ... so the 35mm were not wide

enough ... and so on.

 

There is no such thing as an "ideal" setup ... best you

can do is having a good setup for a certain purpose.

 

If you need more than three primes, you are usually

better off with zooms.

 

But since I'm a bit of a gearhead ... I do have two

collections of primes ... and a set of zooms.

 

1) Primes for 'nostalgic' days (all manual)

- Tamron 17/3.5 (Adaptall)

- Voigtlaender 20/3.5 (replaced the 17mm more or less)

- Zeiss 45/2.8 (C/F)

- Tamron 90/2.5 (Adaptall)

- Tamron 180/2.5 (Adaptall)

 

2) Primes for 'normal' use

- EF 24/1.4

- EF 50/1.2

- EF 85/1.8

- EF 135/2

 

3) Zooms for 'whenever'

- Tokina 10-17

- EF 17-40/4

- EF 24-105/4

- Tamron 28-75/2.8

- EF 100-400

 

But usually I never have more than two (eventually three)

lenses with me.

 

Does this help? ... I guess not ... because the selection of lenses

depends on "you" (not on "me" or on the lenses themselves).

 

Just my 2cts ... Rainer

#20
It's not overly fun to live in a small country with a small closed market. Locally only lenses for wedding photographers and kit lenses are available. Shipping here takes a lot of time, especially at the customs the guys often open the package. Customs fees and taxes are huge and depend of the mood of the controller.

Shipping any item takes 30 to 60 days unless you wanna pay very expensive shipping.

Will order Yongnuo 35mm f2.0 with its price I have nothing to lose, if it's as good as its 50mm sister I am satisfied. For the others I will check availability on the local market. Many expats sell their gear here after summer vacations with family in Lebanon because prices are higher.
  


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